borescope endoscope recommendations?

[timothy42b]

I have a couple handyman type applications but I know some of you use these to align valves.

There are a bunch out there, sizes from 5.5mm to 8mm. Anything to watch out for? Is getting them to talk to a Kindle or iPhone going to be difficult? They are so cheap now it seems dumb not to have one.

[2bobone]

Tim --- I started that " thread" a couple of years ago. I think it was lost in the transition from TTF to TC. it might still be in the archives. Someone added some phenomenal photos of the interiors of the tubing and valves. I'd love to give credit to him, but I've forgotten who it was. Anyway --- I bought mine over the Internet for under $10 and am almost positive it is a 5MM job. Yeah --- those "witness" marks on your valve are far from accurate. On almost every horn I used it, there was a remarkable improvement after properly setting the clearances using the boroscope. Get the smallest diameter you can get because it will allow more freedom in those tight confines. Also --- it should have a light [as most them probably already have]. The horn on which I did NOT need to adjust the clearances ? A cheap Jinbao knock-off of a King 8B !
Go figure --- maybe the Chinese have figured out something our commercial production folks haven't ? I don't know of a cheaper "tweak" out there ! Have fun ! Cheers !!

[boneagain]

I might be the person who posted the photos. The scopes have become even more available since 2018. I've learned a couple things.

1) I now take them apart as soon as I get them. I get photos or diagrams of all the solder points. I have had to resolder EVERY connection for both my scope and the one I gave George McCracken. We also developed a strain relief band to reduce the frequency of fixing the connections.

2) Wireless is nice. Got a really long one (for checking footing drains) and liked the wifi connection to the tablet. Made placing the tablet independent of mucking with the camera.

The reason I'm resurrecting this OLD post that I ran across the pictures I think Bob mentions.

First, a look from the receiver toward the valve. You can see where the valve knuckle is inside the receiver.

1-Approaching receiver.jpg

Then a look with more light from the knuckle to the valve.

2-Approaching knuckle.jpg

... and a detailed look at matchup of valve shell and core

3-At knuckle,valve in Bb.jpg

... with a followup to show the valve partly depressed...

4-At knuckle, valve halway to F.jpg

Then, with the camera twisted about 90 degrees, the valve mostly on F:

8-In knuckle, valve closer to F.jpg

As an example of seeing things farther in, a view of the waterkey:

waterkey.jpg

I did not need the right angle mirror kit for any of these, but when checking French Horns I often do. That mirror has also been useful for checking surface condition way down in the slide. If I just shine a bore light down the slide it looks great. If I use this camera I can see all kind of places that I did not scrub appropriately.

As you can see from the first and second receiver shots, it's quite good for checking out solder around joints. But as Bob points out, the shorter the camera head, and more flexible the cable, the more likely you are to reach important areas, especially in multi-valved instruments.

[Burgerbob]

I have a cheap Bluetooth one I got on Amazon I think. It's great.