Rustoleum Clear Spray Lacquer on neckpipe

[JLivi]

So I was at Home Depot the other day and ended up buying Rustoleum's clear spray lacquer. I was going to attempt to spray the neck pipes on all 3 of the horns I play regularly.

Has anyone ever done this? Is it a decent product? And is it as simple as it seems? Spray on lacquer, play gig in white collared shirt, no more stains on neck of said shirt?

I've been dabbling with various wraps, and plastic tubes for years and just can't find one that works perfectly for me. Which is why I want to try the spray lacquer. Anyone try it with good/bad results?

[Neo Bri]

I'd love to know this too. Seems like a quick, clean, cheap solution.

[Elow]

I’m sure a tech wouldn’t cost too much for that, the lacquer we use at my shop is this stuff https://jaxchemical.com/shop/nikolas-21 ... r-lacquer/ Make sure to clean the surface really well, if you’re polishing the surface before lacquering, use gloves and try not to touch the brass. It will leave fingerprints, and make sure to get rid of any polishing agent you used, once it’s lacquered you can’t get under it. It’s always annoying when you find buffing compound in the crevices, which is common on eastmans

[Crazy4Tbone86]

I would definitely recommend the Nikolas over the Rustoleum brand. Elow, I think you stated something very important in your last email. After any buffing or polishing, YOU MUST clean and degrease the metal before spraying the touch-up lacquer. Otherwise, the lacquer will not bond with the metal. For cleaning and degreasing, isopropyl alcohol on a cotton rag or paper towel should do a decent job.

[bigbandbone]

I was a instrument repairman for 40+ years. On my own bare brass horn I used Min Wax poly urathane on the neck pipe. It's lasted for 5 years now.

[JLivi]

I was a instrument repairman for 40+ years. On my own bare brass horn I used Min Wax poly urathane on the neck pipe. It's lasted for 5 years now.

Oil or water based? I have a bunch of water based poly lying around for wood projects I do on the side.

[Bonearzt]

I think for a DIY, the Rustoleum will be fine.

As mentioned, clean the area well with alcohol or acetone.
Spray several light coats instead of one heavy to avoid runs.

[bigbandbone]

I was a instrument repairman for 40+ years. On my own bare brass horn I used Min Wax poly urathane on the neck pipe. It's lasted for 5 years now.

Oil or water based? I have a bunch of water based poly lying around for wood projects I do on the side.

Rattle can.

[Doubler]

I've used Rustoleum with surprisingly good results. As mentioned above, prep is critical. 5-7 layers is about right, as after the solvent evaporates, the remaining lacquer is thin. Technique, timing, judgment, and patience when applying the coats will be rewarded with the finish you're looking for. Give it at least a week to outgas residual solvents, and then follow up with a good automotive wax. Reapply wax as needed.

[Crazy4Tbone86]

I wasn't aware that MinWax made a polyurethane in a spray can. I thought they just had the stuff in the paint cans that you applied by brush. Cool...I learned something new today!

[SteveFoote]

I've used this.
DEET insect repellant will melt lacquer.
Cleaned it thoroughly with denatured alcohol. Then "polished" with 600 grit sandpaper. Cleaned again with alcohol. Dried and blown with compressed air. Then taped with green painters tape and newspaper to keep spray off of everything else. I can't recall how many coats but it was several. An additional coat can melt the prior coats and result in runs. It looked good and lasted several years but eventually developed pinhole green bleed. My solution was to use some Wright's water based brass polish and then coat it with clear fingernail polish. Lacquer lays flat even when brushed on just as it does on a fingernail. I wouldn't do a whole bell this way but it works as a way to keep green off the collar, I was able to apply a thicker coat which looked decent. If you don't like it, acetone will also melt fingernail polish.

[JLivi]

I've used this.
DEET insect repellant will melt lacquer.
Cleaned it thoroughly with denatured alcohol. Then "polished" with 600 grit sandpaper. Cleaned again with alcohol. Dried and blown with compressed air. Then taped with green painters tape and newspaper to keep spray off of everything else. I can't recall how many coats but it was several. An additional coat can melt the prior coats and result in runs. It looked good and lasted several years but eventually developed pinhole green bleed. My solution was to use some Wright's water based brass polish and then coat it with clear fingernail polish. Lacquer lays flat even when brushed on just as it does on a fingernail. I wouldn't do a whole bell this way but it works as a way to keep green off the collar, I was able to apply a thicker coat which looked decent. If you don't like it, acetone will also melt fingernail polish.

Just so I’m clear. Instead of spray lacquer you ended up using nail polish? Or you add the polish over the lacquer?

[SteveFoote]

Not exactly.
After all the prep I sprayed the lacquer. It was fine for about 2-3 years. Then the green bleed came through. At that point I used the nail polish which is a lacquer as well over the Rustoleum. . If I were starting from scratch I would prep the surface, but not as aggressively and then just use nail polish. It's much easier to paint with a brush and there is no over spray. The nail polish will at least partially dissolve the old lacquer and give a relatively smooth finish. Using this method you really don't have get off all of the old lacquer but the surface does need to be completely free from any green or other colored gunk and be free of any oils including fingerprints. My horns are 40-50 years old and even though they are in good condition, including most of the lacquer, they just don't need to look like new. This is quick and dirty way to keep your collar clean.