TromboneChat

How can you make a press fit lead pipe fit more securely in the receiver so it can’t move around or fall out if the slide is turned upside down. I have a lead pipe that I use on my Yamaha, but it’s a loose fit and won’t fit tightly and securely how I want it to.

I use a bit of painters tape around the top (Bach42 lead pipe).

If it's that loose it's also not fitting tightly in the bore, and it would probably play better if you slightly expand the end. Be careful...

I've used paint tape as well. Doug's point is also very valid.

Uhh, give it to tech. For me, slide expanders are the second most scary thing in a shop. First are buffing wheels. Once you expand, there’s no going back. Real easy to have to replace something.
Edit: ok i take that back, lathes are scary. Point is, it’s really easy to mess something up when you don’t know what you’re doing.

Does it fit snugly inside of the slide tube? There are also some other issues involved. I would also definitely take it to a tech to have the whole thing examined, and see if there is something they do to give you a permanent fix. I know with my screw in leadpipes, they aren't loose even if I don't screw them in.

Are you sure the leadpipe is the right size for the slide?

Teflon tape, like plumbers tape. Sticks to itself.

There are two places where a leadpipe needs to fit securely: at the receiver, and at the end of the leadpipe. As a temporary fix, plumber’s tape (or something else like it) around the receiver end of the pipe can work. But that’s really only a temporary fix. To fix the real problem, have a tech burnish (NOT expand) the end of the leadpipe to fit snugly inside the inner tube of the slide.

Have a tech solder a ring to the top and then file it down until it fits snugly. Love thay setup. Just got a slide back from tech that had thay done to it. Prefer it over threads tbh.

For the flaring of the end in the top tube, sometimes a suitable mandrel will be in any old toolbox. I have a 1/4" drift, for instance, that is gently tapered to the handle that I would use. By pushing it in the end by hand, and rotating it under pressure, the end of the pipe will expand slightly. Check the fit frequently. It's pretty easy to sneak up on an exact fit. It's important to use a gentle taper.

The leadpipe doesn't need to have an airtight seal at the receiver end. If it bothers you that it's "wobbling", then wrap some plumber's tape a.k.a. teflon tape around it. The part that needs to have an airtight seal is the other end of the leadpipe, and if it's loose enough that it can fall out by itself then it's probably not airtight. A tool that works just fine for slightly expanding the end of the leadpipe is a mouthpiece shank. However, I would highly recommend having a tech do it, because you can easily mess things up if you don't know what you're doing.

I always thought a good fit at the end in the top tube would be needed to avoid wave resonating into the cavity between the leadpipe and the top tube. That could make a Helmholtz resonator, acting like a comb filter, a really weird mute. But you know, if it doesn't actually happen, then cool, I'll quit worrying about getting a snug fit.

Never heard of that happening, but if that really worries you then by all means get your leadpipe modified. The problem is, leadpipes were originally designed to fit flush with the receiver and be soldered in. If you pull the pipe and solder a ring onto it, it's actually sticking out past the receiver a bit, and wasn't designed to be a snug fit that way. And different makers have different solutions to how their leadpipes fit and how far the mouthpiece inserts into the leadpipe, so if you're using a leadpipe from a different maker or an aftermarket leadpipe, that's not necessarily designed to be a snug fit at the receiver end either. I like to just wrap some tape around it and be done with it, but you could also shim it. I think trying to open up the receiver end more and changing how far the mouthpiece inserts is pretty risky, though.