TromboneChat

Good morning, all

Is there an easy or simple way to check if a leadpipe is corroded in place before applying the torch? Any evidence that usually shows at the end of the leadpipe?

And is it possible to deliberately sacrifice the leadpipe to save the inner slide tube?

I have two older horns I’d like to go ahead with removing the leadpipes. I have a horn that could be used as a donor if the slide tube is damaged, but I’d much rather lose the wobbly leadpipe than a perfectly good slide tube.

Really no way to tell whether a leadpipe will pull easily until you blaze away, unfortunately.

Yes it is possible to trash the pipe & save the tube.

What flavor horns are we talking about?

Eric

All Olds. I have a Super with a wobbly receiver and a Recording that’s more stuff than others I’ve played. And an Ambassador who’s slide could be used for donor tubes as it’s upper and lower inners are the same size as the upper inners on the Super and Recording respectively. But I like the cool fluted tubes and they’re in good shape. And I like the Ambassador quite a bit so I’d prefer to not cannibalize it.

Neither are my main horns, but I’d still like to get them more to my liking.

I have a surprisingly smooth Jupiter slide that’s the size I want. If finding an Olds slide tenon isn’t a chore then I might want to see if that can be spliced on and pull the pipe on that. For the mean time I’d have a nickel .500” slide with the pipe I want AND not have to change my all original slide. But it’s just a Jupiter slide. I’ll see if it plays well mated to a bell with some tape shim yo fit.

Second option is to use the original slide because it has the tenon as well as the cork barrels and keep at least one of the heavy inner slides. But then swap the upper inner and outer with the Jupiter. The issue is still if the pipe can be removed and also if there’s enough room in the Olds cork barrel for a .500” upper.