Shires Q&A, what would you like to know?

ttf_griffinben · Post by **ttf_griffinben** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 7:23 am

Quote from: lukeaar on Jan 24, 2014, 07:50PMWhat's actually dual-bore about the dual-bore rotar? How is it different from the standard rotar?

The dual bore rotor's tubing is "stepped" like a dual bore slide. The return tubing (and valve port) is larger than the outgoing tubing. This provides a very solid "locked in" feel to notes in the valve register, much like a dual bore slide. It really roars! The sound also has a very focused and tenor timbre to the sound.

This valve have been extremely popular with people wanting the sound and feel of a rotor but not willing to give up performance in the trigger range.

I hope this description makes sense.

Ben

ttf_griffinben · Post by **ttf_griffinben** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 7:37 am

Quote from: Bassbonebuster on Jan 25, 2014, 07:36PMHow do you ensure that the parts you make for a customer will play the same way as the set up they decided on when they were fitted?

As with any hand-made product, there is some variation between different instruments. However, our quality control and consistency is extremely good, resulting less variation than you might expect from other manufacturers. Each instrument is also play tested before it is shipped to ensure that it performs the way it was intended to.

I,personally, would be very comfortable order an instrument from Shires and it performing the way I expected it to.

Best Regards,
Ben

ttf_ChadA · Post by **ttf_ChadA** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 8:23 am

Ben,
Thanks for all the info you're providing. A question:

My backup bass is a Gold Brass Pro-Select. What does that equate to in your parts lineup in terms of bell and slide (I know the tuning slide is a yellow B)?

Thanks!

ttf_griffinben · Post by **ttf_griffinben** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 10:04 am

Quote from: ChadA on Jan 27, 2014, 08:23AMBen,
Thanks for all the info you're providing. A question:

My backup bass is a Gold Brass Pro-Select. What does that equate to in your parts lineup in terms of bell and slide (I know the tuning slide is a yellow B)?

Thanks!

Bell: B1 2G
Slide: B62
Tuning slide: BYB

I hope this helps! Its a nice set-up, for sure.

Ben

ttf_HouBassTrombone · Post by **ttf_HouBassTrombone** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 2:07 pm

I wish they were still made!!!!!!!!!!!

ttf_fwbassbone · Post by **ttf_fwbassbone** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 5:30 pm

Are you planning on putting dual bore valves in a bass? Sounds interesting.

ttf_ChadA · Post by **ttf_ChadA** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 5:46 pm

Quote from: griffinben on Jan 27, 2014, 10:04AMBell: B1 2G
Slide: B62
Tuning slide: BYB

I hope this helps! Its a nice set-up, for sure.

Ben

Thanks! It's a nice change of pace from my other horn (BII 1Y, CGB tuning slide, 562/578 slide).

ttf_griffinben · Post by **ttf_griffinben** » Tue Jan 28, 2014 7:42 am

Quote from: fwbassbone on Jan 27, 2014, 05:30PMAre you planning on putting dual bore valves in a bass? Sounds interesting.

Developing a set of dual bore rotors for bass is certainly something we are hoping to develop in the coming months.

Stay tuned, I will be sure to release details here when it is fully realized.

-Ben

ttf_tombone21 · Post by **ttf_tombone21** » Tue Jan 28, 2014 8:00 am

Why did Shires decide to put a dual-bore rotor on the Master Series instead of an Axial, which seems more common?

ttf_griffinben · Post by **ttf_griffinben** » Tue Jan 28, 2014 8:39 am

Quote from: tombone21 on Jan 28, 2014, 08:00AMWhy did Shires decide to put a dual-bore rotor on the Master Series instead of an Axial, which seems more common?

The Dual Bore rotor is a great valve, that was first and foremost. A rotor is also easier to maintain and less susceptible to damage than an axial. Considering the market we were targeting, we felt this was the most prudent valve to use.

-Ben

ttf_daveyboy37 · Post by **ttf_daveyboy37** » Tue Jan 28, 2014 11:36 am

definitely easier to deal with. Axial Flows can be a PITA at times, and honestly with the improved rotors available and other valves, they are no longer the latest greatest thing on the market. They have positives and minuses like all valves out there.

ttf_lukeaar · Post by **ttf_lukeaar** » Tue Jan 28, 2014 4:47 pm

Agreed. It was my favourite valve of the bunch for sure.

ttf_TromboneMonkey · Post by **ttf_TromboneMonkey** » Tue Jan 28, 2014 4:55 pm

I can't find any mention of them on the website?

ttf_HouBassTrombone · Post by **ttf_HouBassTrombone** » Tue Jan 28, 2014 6:48 pm

They are too busy making horns to update a website!

ttf_TromboneMonkey · Post by **ttf_TromboneMonkey** » Tue Jan 28, 2014 8:35 pm

Sure thing. Rightfully so. I just was curious to learn more about them and get a look at one. Sounds like a great design.

ttf_The Bone Ranger · Tue Jan 28, 2014 11:12 pm

Quote from: daveyboy37 on Jan 28, 2014, 11:36AM(snip) Axial Flows can be a PITA at times (snip)

I see this type of comment all the time on the forum, and, without deliberately singling you out, daveyboy, I wonder whether the people saying it actually have any experience with axial flows/thayers, or are just repeating what the folklore they've heard.

I've owned/own thayers from Bach, Shires, Edwards and even Ed Thayer himself, and have found that nothing more than a regular maintenance routine of good oil and the occasional clean by a good tech to be all that is required to keep them humming.

Five sets of valves, dependent/independent/single.

Zero issues.

Maybe I'm the lucky one. But I'm in a town where most players have thayer valves, and I still haven't heard of any issues.

Maybe there's something in the water here

Andrew

ttf_sfboner · Post by **ttf_sfboner** » Tue Jan 28, 2014 11:44 pm

Quote from: The Bone Ranger on Jan 28, 2014, 11:12PMI've owned/own thayers from Bach, Shires, Edwards and even Ed Thayer himself, and have found that nothing more than a regular maintenance routine of good oil and the occasional clean by a good tech to be all that is required to keep them humming.

Five sets of valves, dependent/independent/single.

I've got an Ed Thayer valve that doesn't function too well despite being well taken care of, it started to leak and then was neglected (replaced) for several years, then it was serviced by a very well respected tech but now tends to stick at the most inconvenient moments. Either there's a little too little play, or the spring might just need to be tightened up a notch. I'm sure if I sent it back to said tech it would be recalibrated to work just fine, but I just haven't got around to it. I really should because that bell section plays like no other.

I've got Shires tenor and independent bass axial valve sections which never have given a lick of trouble mechanically. Well, I had a stop arm screw that would come loose but I fixed that with a spot of nail polish. I take them apart and clean them myself periodically. In particular the tenor section is at least seven or eight years old and has never required outside servicing. It works perfectly and everything is shiny inside with little wear when I clean it.

ttf_TromboneMonkey · Post by **ttf_TromboneMonkey** » Wed Jan 29, 2014 12:02 am

Quote from: sanfranboner on Jan 28, 2014, 11:44PMI've got an Ed Thayer valve that doesn't function too well despite being well taken care of, it started to leak and then was neglected...

...I've got Shires tenor and independent bass axial valve sections which never have given a lick of trouble mechanically.

Once again it boils down to build quality and consistency.

Traditionally, Thayers came from O.E. or on Bach trombones. That story writes itself.

ttf_Matt K · Post by **ttf_Matt K** » Wed Jan 29, 2014 12:57 pm

Are the bell receivers (slide side) and threaded lock rings the same for altos and small bore tenors?

ttf_BassBoneFL · Post by **ttf_BassBoneFL** » Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:11 pm

Quote from: The Bone Ranger on Jan 28, 2014, 11:12PMI see this type of comment all the time on the forum, and, without deliberately singling you out, daveyboy, I wonder whether the people saying it actually have any experience with axial flows/thayers, or are just repeating what the folklore they've heard.

I've owned/own thayers from Bach, Shires, Edwards and even Ed Thayer himself, and have found that nothing more than a regular maintenance routine of good oil and the occasional clean by a good tech to be all that is required to keep them humming.

Five sets of valves, dependent/independent/single.

Zero issues.

Maybe I'm the lucky one. But I'm in a town where most players have thayer valves, and I still haven't heard of any issues.

Maybe there's something in the water here

Andrew

ttf_Duffle · Post by **ttf_Duffle** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 10:34 am

I've heard that the 7YLW plays warmer than the 7GLW or 7RLW. Can this be true Ben?......

ttf_griffinben · Post by **ttf_griffinben** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 11:32 am

Quote from: Duffle on Jan 30, 2014, 10:34AMI've heard that the 7YLW plays warmer than the 7GLW or 7RLW. Can this be true Ben?......

It does for some people. It all depends on the player (and what you mean by warmth!). The 7YLW IS probably our most popular Custom Series bell, if that helps at all.

Best Regards,
Ben

ttf_chrisniblett · Post by **ttf_chrisniblett** » Sun Feb 09, 2014 2:14 am

Hi,

I've just been reading your comments about dual alloy bells with a great deal of interest, I'm in the UK and we have a real big thing going for the "old school" bass trombone sound, something with a more compact and "complex" sound? Difficult to explain but there you go! The old 62h's and Holtons are hugely popular over still! Anyway, in the next month or so I'm looking to get a new horn and I'm hugely tempted by the Shires... something on the lines on a B62 slide, dependant rotors... bels and crooks as of yet undecided, do you (or any of the other good folk out there) have an thoughts on possible combinations for this type of sound? any news on the dual bore rotors? Alas I have too little knowledge and there aren't that many Shires horns knocking about in the UK to road test so all opinions gratefully received!
Cheers
Chris.

ttf_JimR · Post by **ttf_JimR** » Sun Feb 09, 2014 12:43 pm

Hello,

I a looking for an 8" bell to match with a T25NLW slide that will be more at home as a straight horn in small combo and jazz band. My current bell is 1YT7 w/ Tru-bore valve and it really works great in concert band, etc. Articulation and sound is right what I am looking for for that application. Tuning slide is yellow brass.

I would play this new bell with a small shank DE "D cup" mouthpiece.

Would love to go to MA or CA and try out some, but that just isn't in the cards right now.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
Jim

ttf_griffinben · Post by **ttf_griffinben** » Mon Feb 10, 2014 7:55 am

Quote from: chrisniblett on Feb 09, 2014, 02:14AMHi,

I've just been reading your comments about dual alloy bells with a great deal of interest, I'm in the UK and we have a real big thing going for the "old school" bass trombone sound, something with a more compact and "complex" sound? Difficult to explain but there you go! The old 62h's and Holtons are hugely popular over still! Anyway, in the next month or so I'm looking to get a new horn and I'm hugely tempted by the Shires... something on the lines on a B62 slide, dependant rotors... bels and crooks as of yet undecided, do you (or any of the other good folk out there) have an thoughts on possible combinations for this type of sound? any news on the dual bore rotors? Alas I have too little knowledge and there aren't that many Shires horns knocking about in the UK to road test so all opinions gratefully received!
Cheers
Chris.

Hi Chris!

Phil Parker Ltd. is our dealer in England, they should be able to give you a good idea of what is available.

Your thoughts about a B62 slide with dependent rotors sounds great, I would recommend pairing it with our BYB tuning slide and a BI taper bell for the most compact sound. This will still be larger sounding and feeling than a 72H, but will certainly be manageable in a similar way to a more compact bass.

The bell could be anything. It is hard to recommend anything without having a base line to compare to (bass line?). In general, yellow bells are brighter but remain more timbrally stable throughout the more extreme dynamic registers. Red is initially warmer but brightens up quicker when pushed. Gold brass is probably the thickest/densest sounding (all things being equal) and tends to stay more toward the dark sort of sound.

Dual alloys were popular for a little while, but most people tend to stick with a single alloy. One dual ally that has been interesting and popular on bass trombone is a red-gold combination (red stem, gold flare). This seems to be very stable, articulate, and get a bit more of that "vintage" sound.

I usually always recommend Medium weight as a starting point for soldered bead wire bells, standard (slightly heavier) for un-soldered. Medium weight seems to have the best balance of response and stability and is our most popular weight.

I personally use a 9" inch bell flare on my bass. I find this is more compact and punchy which pairs well with the commercial settings I usually find myself in.

But get to Phil Parker's and play some horns, it will give you a much better idea of what directions you like.

I hope that helps.
Ben

ttf_griffinben · Post by **ttf_griffinben** » Mon Feb 10, 2014 8:29 am

Quote from: JimR on Feb 09, 2014, 12:43PMHello,

I a looking for an 8" bell to match with a T25NLW slide that will be more at home as a straight horn in small combo and jazz band. My current bell is 1YT7 w/ Tru-bore valve and it really works great in concert band, etc. Articulation and sound is right what I am looking for for that application. Tuning slide is yellow brass.

I would play this new bell with a small shank DE "D cup" mouthpiece.

Would love to go to MA or CA and try out some, but that just isn't in the cards right now.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
Jim

A 1YM 8 bell with straight neckpipe and counterweight may be just the ticket you are looking for.

I play this combo. So does our production manager. So does one of our techs. So do a lot of people that try it out. If you want it to be even more similar, go for a T7 treatment on this bell too. I am positive you'll like it.

Ben

ttf_Ellrod · Post by **ttf_Ellrod** » Mon Feb 10, 2014 10:25 am

What can you say about the 5VNY bells? I found one short thread about them from three years ago, but nothing since. One would think the 5VNY would be the starting point to building a 42B-ish horn, but there has been nearly no discussion about them.

ttf_daveyboy37 · Post by **ttf_daveyboy37** » Mon Feb 10, 2014 10:49 am

As with all things, you might want to email shires to find out. I'm pretty sure those are the bells they use on the "chicago artist" models.

ttf_Dan Hine · Post by **ttf_Dan Hine** » Mon Feb 10, 2014 12:06 pm

Quote from: daveyboy37 on Feb 10, 2014, 10:49AMAs with all things, you might want to email shires to find out.

Isn't that the point of this entire thread?

ttf_griffinben · Post by **ttf_griffinben** » Mon Feb 10, 2014 1:11 pm

Quote from: Ellrod on Feb 10, 2014, 10:25AMWhat can you say about the 5VNY bells? I found one short thread about them from three years ago, but nothing since. One would think the 5VNY would be the starting point to building a 42B-ish horn, but there has been nearly no discussion about them.

This could be a good place to start. Quite honestly, there's a lot of variation in Bach 42's. A one-piece bell in our larger taper is more "Bach-like", but there's a lot of bells that encompass that description. It could be our TII5VNY or it could be a Chicago bell, or it could be a TII5YLW. Knowing more about what characteristics you are looking for will help us determine which would be a good place for you to start looking.

The Chicago bell is different than the other TII 5 bells; I'm not exactly sure what the difference is but you can feel it when you play it.

I hope that helps,
Ben

ttf_Gabe Langfur · Post by **ttf_Gabe Langfur** » Mon Feb 10, 2014 5:06 pm

I have the Chicago bell on my tenor. For me it's very stable and responsive, and it's also easy to color the sound.

ttf_chrisniblett · Post by **ttf_chrisniblett** » Mon Feb 10, 2014 10:05 pm

Quote from: griffinben on Feb 10, 2014, 07:55AMHi Chris!

Phil Parker Ltd. is our dealer in England, they should be able to give you a good idea of what is available.

Your thoughts about a B62 slide with dependent rotors sounds great, I would recommend pairing it with our BYB tuning slide and a BI taper bell for the most compact sound. This will still be larger sounding and feeling than a 72H, but will certainly be manageable in a similar way to a more compact bass.

The bell could be anything. It is hard to recommend anything without having a base line to compare to (bass line?). In general, yellow bells are brighter but remain more timbrally stable throughout the more extreme dynamic registers. Red is initially warmer but brightens up quicker when pushed. Gold brass is probably the thickest/densest sounding (all things being equal) and tends to stay more toward the dark sort of sound.

Dual alloys were popular for a little while, but most people tend to stick with a single alloy. One dual ally that has been interesting and popular on bass trombone is a red-gold combination (red stem, gold flare). This seems to be very stable, articulate, and get a bit more of that "vintage" sound.

I usually always recommend Medium weight as a starting point for soldered bead wire bells, standard (slightly heavier) for un-soldered. Medium weight seems to have the best balance of response and stability and is our most popular weight.

I personally use a 9" inch bell flare on my bass. I find this is more compact and punchy which pairs well with the commercial settings I usually find myself in.

But get to Phil Parker's and play some horns, it will give you a much better idea of what directions you like.

I hope that helps.
Ben
Many thanks Ben, I'm looking to visit Phil Parker in the next week so will give it a go!

ttf_jennconducts · Post by **ttf_jennconducts** » Tue Feb 11, 2014 1:07 am

Quote from: Ellrod on Feb 10, 2014, 10:25AMWhat can you say about the 5VNY bells? I found one short thread about them from three years ago, but nothing since. One would think the 5VNY would be the starting point to building a 42B-ish horn, but there has been nearly no discussion about them.

I love that bell, in Tll version.

ttf_griffinben · Post by **ttf_griffinben** » Wed Feb 12, 2014 6:48 am

Quote from: jennconducts on Feb 11, 2014, 01:07AMI love that bell, in Tll version.

For what its worth, our type 5 bells are only available in TII taper. They really are great bells, some of my favorites (and I was biased against then until I played them). This includes the Chicago bell, which is one piece, gold brass.

We made TI taper 5 bells for a very short time and they are very interesting, indeed. If you get to try one and like it, buy it! You aren't likely to see another one.

I hope that helps,
Ben

ttf_JimR · Post by **ttf_JimR** » Wed Feb 12, 2014 8:46 am

Quote from: griffinben on Feb 10, 2014, 08:29AMA 1YM 8 bell with straight neckpipe and counterweight may be just the ticket you are looking for.

I play this combo. So does our production manager. So does one of our techs. So do a lot of people that try it out. If you want it to be even more similar, go for a T7 treatment on this bell too. I am positive you'll like it.

Ben

Thanks Ben for the note. I will be on the lookout for a 1YM8 w/ or w/o T7 treatment and see if any turn up on the used market; if not, it will be time to order new later this year. I already have the straight neck pipe and counterweight so I am looking forward to the 8 bell at some point this year.

Cheers!

Jim

ttf_jennconducts · Post by **ttf_jennconducts** » Thu Feb 13, 2014 12:04 am

Quote from: griffinben on Feb 12, 2014, 06:48AMFor what its worth, our type 5 bells are only available in TII taper. They really are great bells, some of my favorites (and I was biased against then until I played them). This includes the Chicago bell, which is one piece, gold brass.

We made TI taper 5 bells for a very short time and they are very interesting, indeed. If you get to try one and like it, buy it! You aren't likely to see another one.

I hope that helps,
Ben

Thanks, Ben, and thanks for the thread. I also have a B62NLW slide and a TX tuning slide on order, giving me close to a Chicago horn.

ttf_Duffle · Post by **ttf_Duffle** » Thu Feb 13, 2014 3:11 am

Quote from: chrisniblett on Feb 10, 2014, 10:05PMMany thanks Ben, I'm looking to visit Phil Parker in the next week so will give it a go!

Let us know how you get on.......

ttf_Dennis Clason · Post by **ttf_Dennis Clason** » Thu Feb 13, 2014 4:05 pm

Quote from: griffinben on Feb 12, 2014, 06:48AMWe made TI taper 5 bells for a very short time and they are very interesting, indeed. If you get to try one and like it, buy it! You aren't likely to see another one.

I hope that helps,
Ben

Well, it sure helps raise my curiosity. In what way are the Type 5 T-I bells interesting?

ttf_HouBassTrombone · Post by **ttf_HouBassTrombone** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 7:13 pm

I just met Ben today. Great guy!

ttf_anonymous · Post by **ttf_anonymous** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 7:44 pm

Hiya,

I have a question regarding the normal Shires Axial Flow valves versus the ones on the Blair Bollinger signature bass. While looking at the Shires website, I noticed that one of the bullet points on the page of Mr. Bollinger's bass trombone is that the valves have been customized with "improved lever geometry". What exactly does that refer to?

Thanks,
Yue Yan

EDIT: I also have another question regarding the Shires bells: What exactly is the difference between a one piece and two piece bell? Although that may be a more general question.

ttf_Ellrod · Post by **ttf_Ellrod** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 8:21 pm

Anyone want to take a run at explaining what this means:

The Chicago model trombone was designed with the famed Chicago Symphony Low Brass section in mind. With this instrument, we have captured the best qualities of the CSOs ideal trombone sound

ttf_mr.deacon · Post by **ttf_mr.deacon** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 10:20 pm

I don't know if anyone has asked this already... but how often do people order Holton/King style slides with the nickel outers and the brass crook?

ttf_chrisniblett · Post by **ttf_chrisniblett** » Sat Feb 15, 2014 3:08 am

Another daft question with regard to dual alloy bass trombone bells... has this ever been done with screw fitting bells? e.g. something like a BII 2RT7 with a screw fitted flare and ordering an addition flare with a screw thread so it could be swapped to a dual alloy RG bell? Or is the just plain insane?! just a thought! Also v curious about the nickel slides with brass end crook too...
All the best
Chris.

ttf_griffinben · Post by **ttf_griffinben** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 5:32 pm

Quote from: HouBassTrombone on Feb 14, 2014, 07:13PMI just met Ben today. Great guy!

I was on my best behavior!

ttf_griffinben · Post by **ttf_griffinben** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 5:38 pm

Quote from: Dennis Clason on Feb 13, 2014, 04:05PMWell, it sure helps raise my curiosity. In what way are the Type 5 T-I bells interesting?

Its probably more interesting to me because I regularly play all of the different bell types. I find the one piece, TI bells to have a unique blend of core and tonal flexibility. The open edges of the sound are similar to the type 8 bells (which we VERY rarely make, because the type 2 bells just seem to center and articulate better for 99% of our customers), but it has a more solid center to the core. This is a denser feel than the TII bells.

I hope that makes sense.

Ben

ttf_griffinben · Post by **ttf_griffinben** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 5:42 pm

Quote from: YueYan on Feb 14, 2014, 07:44PMHiya,

I have a question regarding the normal Shires Axial Flow valves versus the ones on the Blair Bollinger signature bass. While looking at the Shires website, I noticed that one of the bullet points on the page of Mr. Bollinger's bass trombone is that the valves have been customized with "improved lever geometry". What exactly does that refer to?

Thanks,
Yue Yan

EDIT: I also have another question regarding the Shires bells: What exactly is the difference between a one piece and two piece bell? Although that may be a more general question.

The Bollinger Axial valves place the lever connector on the stop arm closer to the spindle. This shortens the throw but increases effort. It is also much more sensitive to correct lever geometry. (don't bend your axial levers!) There's always a trade off. It is possible to order a bass trombone/valves with these stop arms, but they will not necessarily work with an existing valve set's levers. (They have different geometry)

One piece bells are made from a single sheet of brass while two piece bells are made from two pieces (stem and flare) that are brazed together.

I hope that helps!
Ben

ttf_griffinben · Post by **ttf_griffinben** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 5:47 pm

Quote from: mr.deacon on Feb 14, 2014, 10:20PMI don't know if anyone has asked this already... but how often do people order Holton/King style slides with the nickel outers and the brass crook?

This has been more popular with small bore tenor trombones than with large bore or basses, and is almost always a lightweight slide. It is a small, but noticeable percentage. This is a custom order, only.

The yellow crook paired with nickel seems to add some complexity to the sound and a minutely larger feel with a nickel, lightweight slide. It has it's fans at the shop and I think it works best with medium weight bells.

I have seriously been thinking of changing the crook on my B62N (nickel with oversleeves) to this crook.

I hope that helps,
Ben

ttf_griffinben · Post by **ttf_griffinben** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 5:51 pm

Quote from: chrisniblett on Feb 15, 2014, 03:08AMAnother daft question with regard to dual alloy bass trombone bells... has this ever been done with screw fitting bells? e.g. something like a BII 2RT7 with a screw fitted flare and ordering an addition flare with a screw thread so it could be swapped to a dual alloy RG bell? Or is the just plain insane?! just a thought! Also v curious about the nickel slides with brass end crook too...
All the best
Chris.

We have kicked around the idea man times but have yet to do it (it is entirely possible to do). This will probably wait until someone orders it or one of our staff gets the bug and does it themselves to their own horn!

ttf_Malec Heermans · Post by **ttf_Malec Heermans** » Sun Mar 02, 2014 6:42 am

I don't hear much about the heavy weight bells. What sort of horn sizes/musical situations/players do you think these bells would be appropriate (or inappropriate!) for?

ttf_griffinben · Post by **ttf_griffinben** » Mon Mar 03, 2014 5:40 am

Quote from: malec on Mar 02, 2014, 06:42AMI don't hear much about the heavy weight bells. What sort of horn sizes/musical situations/players do you think these bells would be appropriate (or inappropriate!) for?

Our standard weight bells are as heavy as most people's heavy weight bells, so that may be the reason why you don't hear about them as much. (t the time Steve starting making instruments under his own name, heavier bells were in favor, so that became the "standard" weight). Our medium weight is much more what you will find as "standard" weight on other instruments.

In general, the heavy weight bells are more popular with people that want to put a lot of sound out into the hall. They aren't as timbrally flexible and take more effort to blend with instruments around them, so they do need a smart player that is also strong (I think). More people are successful doing this with our medium and lightweight bells, which project very well and blend easier.

Hopefully Gabe will chime in, because he was dealing with these bells when they were more popular.

Ben