Getzen Eterna Second Valve

[kramanathan]

I am looking for only the second valve section from a Getzen 1052FD Eterna bass trombone. Does anybody have any experience buying parts directly from Getzen, or know of somewhere else to get this specific part? I'm looking to add a second valve to a Contempora that already had the F-attachment replaced with Getzen tubing. If anyone knows how much the part and/or installation for something like would cost, that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

[Jgittleson]

Easily doable. The 2nd valve assembly is available through allied, as is all the tubing.

[doctortrombone]

Allied lists all the parts separately. It's kind of hard to tell, since there are no pictures and the descriptions are vague. Just the valve assembly (I'm assuming casing, valve rotor, bearing, cap, and stops) retails for over $325 at standard markup. The tubing adds at least another $150 if you're using all Getzen parts. Then there's the lever, additional braces, and so on. And all of this is assuming that every part is in stock. I'd put it at somewhere around $600 to $800 without buffing and re-lacquering.

You'd probably be better off buying someone else's cast-off used valve section and selling the Getzen single valve.

[Jgittleson]

Allied lists all the parts separately. It's kind of hard to tell, since there are no pictures and the descriptions are vague. Just the valve assembly (I'm assuming casing, valve rotor, bearing, cap, and stops) retails for over $325 at standard markup. The tubing adds at least another $150 if you're using all Getzen parts. Then there's the lever, additional braces, and so on. And all of this is assuming that every part is in stock. I'd put it at somewhere around $600 to $800 without buffing and re-lacquering.

You'd probably be better off buying someone else's cast-off used valve section and selling the Getzen single valve.

Ive purchased it, every single piece is available. It is readily stocked because allied is getzen. Its worthwhile if he likes the horn, people regularly do more adventurous things to their horns than this. And you forget he needs the gooseneck.

[mrdeacon]

Hey man you're better off just purchasing a used Getzen 1052FD.

Like Doc said, it's going to cost you $600-$800 to add another valve and at that point, you might as well sell your Contempora and use the funds to buy a Getzen 1052FD or 1052FDR. You can find them used for around $1500-$2000 depending on how lucky you get.

[Jgittleson]

$600 is just parts, not labor.

I think you're all missing the point. He didnt ask about selling his horn, nor buying a new one. The OP wants to know how to do it, and what it will cost. Maybe he has an affinity to his horn for one reason or another. I've been there. Putting money into a horn because i loved it, regardless if its "worth it" in the eyes of anyone else. Im sure I'm not the only one!

[kramanathan]

Thanks for all the feedback so far, everyone. Jgittleson has the right idea here. This horn was a gift and carries a good deal of sentimental value for me, not to mention that it plays fantastic. On another note, I am curious about another option that I think still falls under this thread.

How much would it cost to replace the current single valve setup with a dependent dual-valve setup?

And what I'm even more curious about:

How much would someone charge to add a dependent valve into the current setup? i.e. cutting into the current valve tubing and adding a new valve.

I want to keep as much of the horn original as possible, but seeing as the valve section is already non-original, I could live with such a modification. And for anyone wondering, I am not opposed to a dependent or independent setup. I have play both and appreciate both. If anything I might slightly favour a dependent setup, but for this project, I feel that cost and logistical-effectiveness is more important.

Thanks again!

[kramanathan]

Thanks for all the feedback so far, everyone. Jgittleson has the right idea here. This horn was a gift and carries a good deal of sentimental value for me, not to mention that it plays fantastic. On another note, I am curious about another option that I think still falls under this thread.

How much would it cost to replace the current single valve setup with a dependent dual-valve setup?

And what I'm even more curious about:

How much would someone charge to add a dependent valve into the current setup? i.e. cutting into the current valve tubing and adding a new valve.

I want to keep as much of the horn original as possible, but seeing as the valve section is already non-original, I could live with such a modification. And for anyone wondering, I am not opposed to a dependent or independent setup. I have play both and appreciate both. If anything I might slightly favour a dependent setup, but for this project, I feel that cost and logistical-effectiveness is more important.

Thanks again!

[Matt K]

Could you post a picture of your current configuration? Is it the "stock" closed wrap configuration? That's going to be costly to add something to either way. It might be cheaper to open wrap it or disassemble it and put it at an angle so that one valve comes forward at a 45 degree angle and the second goes behind the horn at a 45 degree angle. Given that there is no upper bell brace though, and everything is held together by the bracing inside the horn, you'll have like 14(?) solder points by my count to even just detach and reattach. There isn't an obvious place to install a second valve in the tubing either. So dependent makes just as much sense as independent if you can get your hands on a tube of the correct length with an internal taper to connect the second valve to the tuning slide receiver.

If you look at my dependent tenor:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B21Vp ... G9jSFBsNk0

(It doesn't currently look like that, the folder inside that folder has a second set of pictures when I got it back from Eric Edwards who built the linkages for me -- but I need to take more detailed photos of the project as it currnetly is). In either case, that is a Bach 36 rotor, closed wrap, with a Conn 88... mostly... D attachment. You can see the tech who did that work had to pull the F attachment wrap back and then do some custom work to get the D attachment in between the main bell bracing and the F attachment wrap. $$$ $$$ $$$! I love the way it plays but I wouldn't recommend it unless you have cash to burn! Just the linkages alone (which largely utilized a Duo Gravis part that Eric managed to find for me) and the fancy curved bell brace were a few hundred $. All in, the project was a little under $2k.

Another alternative to consider is seeing if you can get some of the parts to connect the tuning slide and the handslide... perhaps even a trashed Contempora bell section. Get set of working valve + linkages and have someone fit it inside the other Contempora parts. Make the two modular. Possibly less expensive depending on how you acquire the valves.

Yet another option might be to put a second valve in the F attachment tuning slide. It would look a little funny and the linkage would have to be like 10" long (longer?) but it would involve the least amount of cutting. Might actually be the cheapest option because of that.

[doctortrombone]

Thanks for all the feedback so far, everyone. Jgittleson has the right idea here. This horn was a gift and carries a good deal of sentimental value for me, not to mention that it plays fantastic. On another note, I am curious about another option that I think still falls under this thread.

How much would it cost to replace the current single valve setup with a dependent dual-valve setup?

$600 to $1000 if you use new parts. $400 to $600 if you're patient and find a second valve used and have that installed. $400 to $800 if you find an existing used dependent valve system that's appropriate for the horn.

You're implying that money is no object (because the horn has sentimental value) but you keep asking about cost. Why not ask about the best way of doing it?

How much would someone charge to add a dependent valve into the current setup? i.e. cutting into the current valve tubing and adding a new valve.

Depends on who does it, and how. There are slide-in second valves that replace the tuning slide crook. They may be less expensive, but they use prohibitively long linkages and are, IMHO, kinda half-assed.

Splicing in requires finding the right spot, the right size valve, the right linkage, etc. I'm sure you could find a tech who would do it for $400 or less, but maybe not doing it well. Having it done well would be nearly as much as putting in a used dependent double-valve system with a design that was engineered around a dual-valve set-up and has its own, well-designed linkage system.