Side note: anyone have any firm opinions on gutter guards? I see that there are a million options and the reviews on all of them seem pretty bad... including not putting guards on
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I feel your pain. I've dealt with squirrels for decades. We have an understanding concerning territorial dominion. When they violate it, consequences ensue. I've never had them go up the downspouts, but hey have gotten into gutters from the ends if those have any gaps, and they have chewed through facia (now replaced and wrapped in aluminum -- which also defeats the carpenter bees), and they've managed to get into the house that way. That was the last squirrel straw and the "understanding" was subsequently updated and made more explicit. They've also managed to get in some attic vents where the old mesh had degraded and come out. Their acrobatics are impressive, though somewhat outdone by the raccoons when those were stripping our fig tree of fruit (new understanding with them as well -- which included 7,000 V electric mesh fence charger). Then only the possum got through (apparently he was fast enough and had enough insulation not to be bothered). So a strobe/ultrasound repeller has taken care of that (and the deer as well).WGWTR180 wrote: ↑Fri May 24, 2024 11:41 am We had gutter guards years ago. I put them all on and they worked great UNTIL the freakin' squirrels went up through the downspouts and built 20 feet long nests in every gutter!! I then had to take them all off and the squirrels were attacking me as I was doing it. Never again.
You may discover that some of your new neighbors are feeding the cute little creatures.
So ... that would make it at least a 5 story house? But even 30 ft is further up than I want to go any more -- even with a harness.Matt K wrote: Last owners cleaned them out themselves but it's like 80 ft off the ground. I'm not that brave!
A good point. The competent installers are very good about this -- and about not creating too long a run without an additional downspout. With these most recent ones we had installed, we managed to eliminate one intermediate downspout -- partly as a a result of careful installation, and partly as a result of the larger (4" vs. 3") gutter size. But at almost 40' of run, that's about the limit. Everything is working very well, even in the recent downpours we've had. They even (without extra cost) retrofit an existing downspout on one of our other gutters to eliminate an overflow (2nd story gutter to 1st story gutter) that I'd done a rough Rube Goldberg fix on.AndrewMeronek wrote: ↑Fri May 24, 2024 3:40 pm Make sure the gutters themselves slope downward correctly. If the slope catches debris at the end of a gutter that does not have a drain, no gutter guard is going to help.
My snarky thought is that after the gutters themselves, a garden hose and a ladder are a pretty good investment for gutter maintenance, but sometimes that isn't feasible to reach all the needed gutters, either if the house has a tricky roof design or if someone can't really use ladders.
This is my experience with the old-style "mesh" gutters (which we originally had on the house decades ago), and why I'm suspicious of the newer Leafguard "micromesh" style. But it simply hasn't happened with the helmet style gutters. There can be no leaf buildup on them since the rain washes leaves off the smooth tops of the gutter. And the way these work is that the rain does actually wash over the top -- and then around the curved front edge into the gutter (it takes advantage of the surface tension of the water in doing this). There is some advice to wash off the front edge of the gutter with a hose from time to time in order to avoid any build up of "gunk" that may stick to the front, but I confess I've never done this and haven't seen any problem caused by it. In anything from light rain to hurricanes sweeping through the central Carolinas, we've had no problem with these. The only time we've had any problem was when a big oak (75 ft or more) fell right on the corner of our roof, and the gutter wasn't repaired quite correctly (and not by the original installers, but by the roofers who fixed the roof -- I should have paid more attention to that ). But I think a lot may depend on the quality of the gutter (material, etc.) itself, and the skill of the installer -- and what they'll stand behind. All of that is a big part of what you pay for.Doubler wrote: ↑Fri May 24, 2024 10:20 pm
... Leaf Guard and other gutter systems with the same design. These are pretty good at redirecting light rain, period. Anything more will just spill over the top, avoiding the inside of the gutters altogether and splashing against the foundation of the building, eventually causing expensive settling, cracking, and other foundation damage (ask me how I know).
Maybe for light "city or suburban" (JohnL wrote: ↑Sat May 25, 2024 12:38 am Anyone ever try one of these?
https://www.orbitonline.com/products/te ... aning-wand
Looks promising.
That seems to be what my research has lead to. I found someone who can at least clean them for me for a pretty reasonable price so I do t have standing water in it.So what's the answer? Pick your poison; guttering is expensive no matter what, and don't expect warranties to help. I've had all three $y$tem$, and my next choice will be conventional gutters and downspouts, so I can have effective rainwater management much, but not all, of the time, along with the reassurance that I'll be keeping whomever I hire to clean my gutters living a comfortable lifestyle.