Shires bass trombone questions

[musicofnote]

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[WGWTR180]

Well here's some general advice:

1. Are you a pro or an aspiring pro? If so I'd go for the top of the line. If not will it really matter except you'll own what others have?

2. Advice can be given BUT until you do all of the testing yourself our opinions are worth the keyboard I'm typing on right now.

It's a journey. Enjoy it. And FWIW after you've gone down the instrument rabbit hole the mouthpiece rabbit hole is next.

[Burgerbob]

A couple of Shires questions. I know that writing about "Tone" or "response" is elusive, but ...

1) What are the basic differences between the Curran bell, the Bollinger Bell and the Bollinger "travel" (detachable) bell in terms of tonal colour and response?

2) Has anyone tried a Curran model and/or a Bollinger model with rotors instead of axials? Does that even "work" (however one defines the term "work"). Why am I asking? I've never been a fan of axials.

There's a shop "near" here that offers custom Shires, where you pick your own components. While It's tempting, I don't know if I know enough about them to do so or if it would be "better" (or smarter) to simply buy a Q-series and spruce it up bit by bit with custom components as time goes on.

Any and all input welcome ...

1. Curran bell is a pretty heavy bell. It's the main reason I sold mine, it's just too much for we mortals that play outside of big, loud orchestras as a job. The Bollinger is a much more malleable instrument, but is still pretty big.

2. The Bollinger travel horn comes with trubores, which I usually don't really dig, but they play different on his horn. Try that one.

[musicofnote]

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[musicofnote]

content deleted by author

[WGWTR180]

Well here's some general advice:

1. Are you a pro or an aspiring pro? If so I'd go for the top of the line. If not will it really matter except you'll own what others have?

Not to go too deeply, I'm a retired pro. Since I retired, while I only play for my own enjoyment (slight sporadic old age lip tremor forced my hand to retire), I have finally had time to woodshed a couple of my problems and basically have never played better than now despite the tremor. Which also shows me the shortcomings of my present horn - some of which I've discussed on this discussion board. I guess it's akin to my wife, the professional pianist, who retired from public playing but still enjoys her 2 meter Bechstein. A classic, classy instrument that doesn't get in the way of her musical enjoyment.

Thanks for the input!

I think it's wonderful that you've begun, or continued, to play. Since you "know a think or two" I'd say go for the gusto!! Sorry I have nothing specific to offer on your post but I would say to pick whatever makes you work the least. Who needs the aggravation!!

[JeffBone44]

We can give you recommendations, but the truth is that you won't really know until you try the horns out for yourself.

FWIW, I play a B62LW slide, independent axials, and a BII 5VNY yellow bell. It's a good middle of the road horn, not hard to play, and it works well for me in both orchestra and big band.

[GabrielRice]

The Curran bell is the equivalent of a BII 7Y A5. It's heavy, but in the context of that instrument has a lot of life to the sound and works well. I didn't like it as much when I tried it on TruBore valves as I do in the complete Curran instrument.

The Bollinger bell is a BII 7YM, which is probably the most popular Shires bass bell at this point. I played one for several years on TruBores, rotors, and a single rotor. The 7YM is the most popular for a reason - it can do pretty much anything you ask it to and fit in well in a lot of styles and ensembles.

I'm almost positive the Bollinger travel bell is a BII 7YLW with a detachable flare - and therefore extra weight from the ring. I like an uncut 7YM better, personally.

If you like the sound and response of gold brass (like your Yamaha), the BII 7GM is also a great bell, probably my personal favorite.