Hey there folks, wondering if folks have experience using this as a coding over raw brass? Considering stripping locker on a couple of projects, then playing around with some forced patina like Aiden did on the Monster Bass..
What were your methods and results?
Planning to do a scratch brushed finish if that makes any difference.
EZ
https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-XTL- ... g4EALw_wcB
For reference
Renaissance Wax
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- DougHulme
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Re: Renaissance Wax
Theres a thread that included this discussion somewhere here - last 3 weeks or so but I cant fnd it now.
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Re: Renaissance Wax
Hey Doug, thanks for the heads up. I did find this
viewtopic.php?t=33497
Which makes brief mention of it. Was hoping to get a bit more of a dialogue going on it without thread jacking that op's thread.
EZ
viewtopic.php?t=33497
Which makes brief mention of it. Was hoping to get a bit more of a dialogue going on it without thread jacking that op's thread.
EZ
- ghmerrill
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Re: Renaissance Wax
Have you looked at the Wikipedia page on micro-crystalline waxes? It's really pretty interesting and mentions Renaissance Wax. I particularly like the application of it to hockey sticks -- using the old sticky cloth electrical tape was less than ideal.
Another thing you might look at is Nu Finish. I've used this successfully in a variety of circumstances, though not on bare metal (usually on plastic or lacquer). Its use and effects are somewhat controversial. It's not a wax, not a polish (not abrasive anyway), and it fills micro-pores and defects of the surface. Some people have used it on bare metal.
https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid ... r=8-2&th=1
Also ... my wife uses "Magic" (brand name) stainless steel cleaner on stainless kitchen surfaces (backsplash, refrigerator) and thinks highly of it. They also have an "All Metal Polish" product for copper, brass, aluminum, ... and claim that their products "leave a protective coating" as well as "polishing" the surface and being "environmentally safe." Might be worth investigating.
Another thing you might look at is Nu Finish. I've used this successfully in a variety of circumstances, though not on bare metal (usually on plastic or lacquer). Its use and effects are somewhat controversial. It's not a wax, not a polish (not abrasive anyway), and it fills micro-pores and defects of the surface. Some people have used it on bare metal.
https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid ... r=8-2&th=1
Also ... my wife uses "Magic" (brand name) stainless steel cleaner on stainless kitchen surfaces (backsplash, refrigerator) and thinks highly of it. They also have an "All Metal Polish" product for copper, brass, aluminum, ... and claim that their products "leave a protective coating" as well as "polishing" the surface and being "environmentally safe." Might be worth investigating.
Gary Merrill
Amati Oval Euph
1924 Buescher 3-valve Eb tuba
Schiller American Heritage 7B clone bass trombone
M/K nickel MV50 leadpipe
DE LB K/K8/110 Lexan
1947 Olds "Standard" trombone (Bach 12c)
Amati Oval Euph
1924 Buescher 3-valve Eb tuba
Schiller American Heritage 7B clone bass trombone
M/K nickel MV50 leadpipe
DE LB K/K8/110 Lexan
1947 Olds "Standard" trombone (Bach 12c)
- harrisonreed
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Re: Renaissance Wax
I had a friend who used it on a raw brass Bach. It looked good but was a little cloudy because I think he just used elbow grease and a cloth. I would apply it with a buffing wheel and soft material, or a rotary tool with a soft buffing attachment. Armor and weapons that have it applied can have a mirror finish.
- ghmerrill
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Re: Renaissance Wax
You need to be really careful about ANY kind of machine buffing (even something like a Dremel) when it comes to brass -- including the force of the buffing, the material used, and the abrasive. It's just too easy to create wavy patterns in that soft metal.harrisonreed wrote: ↑Sun Dec 10, 2023 2:24 pm I would apply it with a buffing wheel and soft material, or a rotary tool with a soft buffing attachment.
Yes, and you can do this with soft metals too -- if you go very slowly and carefully. Armor and weapons are made of steel, or at least bronze -- which are much harder than the brass from which we make instruments.harrisonreed wrote: Armor and weapons that have it applied can have a mirror finish.
Gary Merrill
Amati Oval Euph
1924 Buescher 3-valve Eb tuba
Schiller American Heritage 7B clone bass trombone
M/K nickel MV50 leadpipe
DE LB K/K8/110 Lexan
1947 Olds "Standard" trombone (Bach 12c)
Amati Oval Euph
1924 Buescher 3-valve Eb tuba
Schiller American Heritage 7B clone bass trombone
M/K nickel MV50 leadpipe
DE LB K/K8/110 Lexan
1947 Olds "Standard" trombone (Bach 12c)
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Re: Renaissance Wax
Great dialogue guys.. keep it coming
EZ
EZ
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Re: Renaissance Wax
I recently started using the Lee Valley Conservator’s Wax on my un-lacquered bell, it seems to last quite well, and is easy to buff by hand. I had a few spots of corrosion that I cleaned up before applying the wax, and there hasn’t been any sign of the corrosion continuing since I applied the wax. No idea how it would work with a brushed finish, but I’m guessing it would take more buffing, and maybe with a cloth with more texture than you’d typically use?