Does anyone know to make the Edwards Power Bore valve quicker?

[Keven]

I recently got a horn with an Edwards Power Bore valve, but I find it super sluggish/hard to press compared to my old A47 valve. Does anyone have any recommendations on aftermarket parts to improve the valve quickness?
-Thanks!

[Burgerbob]

Is it clean and lubed?

[Keven]

Is it clean and lubed?

Yes, it is!

[Burgerbob]

Is it clean and lubed?

Yes, it is!

Linkage included?

[paulyg]

You can always get a beefier spring.

A modern valve like that should be pretty quick, though. When was the last time you really cleaned it/had it cleaned?

[LeoInFL]

I've experienced something similar with my Getzen 3047. After disassembling the valve for a thorough cleaning, I accidentally put one of the miniball rod ends 'backwards' in the linkage. The action was so bad I thought I broke/bent something during cleaning. Try flipping one rod end and see it that helps. I use Hetman's linkage oil and it works great.

[pedrombon]

My Edwards T-350CR-E (PowerBore rotor) has a short, smooth and fast valve action from day one.

I've been using Hetman #11 for the rotor, #13 for the spindle and #15 for the minibal and it works like the first day.

Your valve probably needs a professional cleaning...

[hyperbolica]

I'm not sure if this will help or not, but I have a horn that reacts strangely to lubrication. If I am careful to put Hetmans in it, it inevitably slows down to the point of binding. If I stop lubricating it altogether, it works better the longer it goes without. I think there is something in there that absorbs Hetmans and swells. Last time I had that horn in the shop, I had the tech lap the valve, which should have cleaned it, but it came back like this. So I've given up oiling it, and it works better every week. It's an oversize brass valve core - Kanstul.

[Bach5G]

OTOH Hetman 11 made my Yamaha playable.

[Keven]

My Edwards T-350CR-E (PowerBore rotor) has a short, smooth and fast valve action from day one.

I've been using Hetman #11 for the rotor, #13 for the spindle and #15 for the minibal and it works like the first day.

Your valve probably needs a professional cleaning...

It's a brand new valve, I think it's just the spring is heavier than I'm used to.
-Thanks!

[Keven]

Yes, it is!

Linkage included?

Yesir!

[Keven]

I'm not sure if this will help or not, but I have a horn that reacts strangely to lubrication. If I am careful to put Hetmans in it, it inevitably slows down to the point of binding. If I stop lubricating it altogether, it works better the longer it goes without. I think there is something in there that absorbs Hetmans and swells. Last time I had that horn in the shop, I had the tech lap the valve, which should have cleaned it, but it came back like this. So I've given up oiling it, and it works better every week. It's an oversize brass valve core - Kanstul.

I'll try to leave it for a week and see if it gets better! Thank you for the advice!

[Keven]

You can always get a beefier spring.

A modern valve like that should be pretty quick, though. When was the last time you really cleaned it/had it cleaned?

It's a brand new valve, I think the spring being heavy might be the problem I'm having with it.
Thanks!

[paulyg]

You can always get a beefier spring.

A modern valve like that should be pretty quick, though. When was the last time you really cleaned it/had it cleaned?

It's a brand new valve, I think the spring being heavy might be the problem I'm having with it.
Thanks!

"Brand-New" does not always mean "clean."

[harrisonreed]

Have you busted the valve open? If I had a sluggish valve, I'd pop it open and clean it, inspect it, and then use the right types (plural) of Hetman's on it. Light, bearing, and ball joint.

Not knowing what is in there and saying some types work better than others is making an uniformed decision.

[Bach5G]

Can you send it back to Edwards for “calibration”?