Holton TR-140 Valve bumpers

[Amconk]

So I recently bought a TR-140 holton with the (infamous?) monster valve. I'd like to replace the valve bumpers, which are old, and the rubber has gotten brittle. But since it has fairly unique valve bumpers, I'm not exactly sure what to use... at this point my best guess is to go to the hardware store and look for some thick-walled black rubber tubing that I can cut small pieces off of and trim to fit.

Any other suggestions from you folks out there in Tech-Land?

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Cheers!

Michael

[JohnL]

I'm thinking you could start with sheet of the correct thickness, drill a hole, and cut a cylindrical plug concentric to the hole.

[baileyman]

You may be able to use vacuum cleaner belt. $6 would get you a lifetime supply for both you and everyone you know. Usually a 1/4" slice will slide into the valve type with a cup shape that holds the bumper, but it should also work on this one by punching a hole through the middle. A nail, awl, large needle, etc. Then adjust the stop by shaving the rubber.

[Amconk]

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I ended up finding some 3/16 rubber fuel line at the hardware store that I cut a few pieces off of and it works well. The witness marks line up better now, and with a cleaning and oiling, the valve is much much quieter.

[harrisonreed]

That looks great

[Elow]

How do these play? Are they close to lindberg/trubores?

[Amconk]

How do these play? Are they close to lindberg/trubores?

The valve throw is short. The ergonomics of the horn feel a bit awkward, but not overly so. The F side of the horn is extremely open, and clear sounding. The Bb side takes a little more effort to play, but honestly it’s not as bad I’ve always heard. The positions line up where they should, and the slotting seems decent. The sound is typical Holton, heavy and strong. With the 9” red brass bell it would make a great horn for a 3rd player in a symphonic setting.

[elmsandr]

Only valve I've ever played where the F side is better than the Bb side.

Really weird.

Cheers,
Andy

[Crazy4Tbone86]

I always wanted to take detailed measurements on one of those horns. Yes, the valve is unique and interesting. However, I think the fact that the gooseneck taper is BEFORE the valve is a very fascinating thing about it. What did Holton do to make that work? Is the bore size of the valve section in the .590s instead of the .560s? Also, is the bore size of the valve section the same as the small side of the main tuning slide?

[Crazy4Tbone86]

I'm still interested in knowing the bore of the F-attachment in the Monster Valve wrap. I am predicting it is in the .580s or .590s. Michael, have you been able to measure the F-attachment bore?

[Amconk]

No, I need to find my calipers and I’ll give it a look!

[harrisonreed]

Be looking like a decommissioned land mine

[elmsandr]

About .575 with my calipers. Didn’t take a lot of care or get the good calipers, but also checked the K valve next to it at .562, so I think it is close enough to call it.

Cheers,
Andy

[Crazy4Tbone86]

Thanks! Smaller than I expected. What is the inside diameter of the small side of the main tuning slide?

[elmsandr]

Thanks! Smaller than I expected. What is the inside diameter of the small side of the main tuning slide?

I don't have that part (I own just the valve section not a horn).

Mine's interchangeable on a Bach 42 with an Ed Thayer valve, a Conn CL2000, and a Bach K valve. None were original to the horn. Started life as a 42 CO. I own none of the original components anymore. Truly my grandfather's Axe.

Cheers,
Andy