DIY Brushed Finish?

[Ingant]

Hi, I'm currently looking into buying an old Conn 6H with some lacquer issues but hopefully a lower price for that matter. I've heard that you can send the horn to conn to get a brushed finish? Is that true, and if so, does anyone know how much that would cost? Otherwise I am wondering if a job like this can be done on your own. I have heard of people using Aircraft stripper for removing lacquer. Would brushing it on your own cause any unevenness in the horn? If I were to brush the horn with steel wool, how could I prevent it from tarnishing? Would I need to re-lacquer it? I really like the look of a brushed finish on a horn and am wondering if doing it on your own is achievable and reliable. Thank you.

[FullPedalTrombonist]

I think old Conn lacquer can be stripped with Citrustrip. You can even use it indoors. You can brush the horn with very fine steel wool very lightly or use fine sand paper. You won’t want to take off a ton of material. To prevent it from tarnishing send it to a shop to get it relacquered.

I don’t think the Conn-Selmer conglomerate will do custom finish work for you, but I haven’t heard about that service being offered before

[Matt K]

I use a bench grinder with a steel wool wheel when I do it but I've practiced on a number of beater horns before touching a "professional" level horn. However, I leave my horns unlacquered after the fact and so they do develop a patina. If you wanted to prevent that from developing, you'd have to aggressively polish very routinely or have someone relacquer it when you're finished. They'd also probably need to redo the process to make sure it was done right (e.g. make sure there is no moisture under the part they lacquer) so you're probably best off getting a tech to do both if you want the satin finish to be lacquered over.

[CharlieB]

- Yes, you can do it yourself.
- Yes, aircraft stripper will work. It's the most effective way, but it is a carcinogen, so use outside with gloves and goggles. Citristrip is safer, but may need multiple applications. Boiling water works, too, if you have access to a very big pot to dip the parts into. Buy a small brass bristled brush at Home Depot (about $2) for cleaning the hard to reach spots. None of these methods will discolor the brass. There may be discolored areas of brass where the old lacquer has failed, but these will clean up later on. If you use a stripper, be extremely anal about following the directions for neutralizing it, because the least little bit of residue will ruin your lacquer job.
- The newly stripped brass will be smooth. You can make the "brushed finish" by hand rubbing the horn with steel
wool. It requires surprisingly little effort. The steel wool (also Home Depot) comes in various grades of coarse-
ness. The coarser the grade, the more brushed effect you'll get. The steel wool will also remove any discolora-
tion.
- You can lacquer the horn yourself using generic clear spray lacquer also from (guess where?) Also buy a gallon can
of lacquer thinner. Wash the newly steel-wooled horn surgically clean with detergent and hot water, dry thoroughly,
and wipe it down with the lacquer thinner. Do not allow anything to touch the horn after the lacquer bath, especially fingers. Finger prints trapped under the new lacquer will appear after a few days.
- Spray lacquer on the inside of the bell first, and let it dry. Then stand the bell vertically on a stick to lacquer the out-
side.The slide parts are most easily done by hanging them from a wire or cord attached to an area that doesn't get lacquered.
Do not be afraid of making a mistake. Do your best to spray the lacquer thinly and evenly, but if you get a run or a
sag, just stop, wipe the fresh lacquer off with some lacquer thinner, and try again.
- The total cost of materials: about $35.

[Neo Bri]

Can a home lacquer job with a rattle can really be as good as a "pro" job? If so, this really does sound intriguing. I'd love to refinish a few horns.

[FullPedalTrombonist]

Can a home lacquer job with a rattle can really be as good as a "pro" job? If so, this really does sound intriguing. I'd love to refinish a few horns.

Probably with the right product and some practice it’ll look nice and be as thin as possible. I’ve done clear finishes on some car parts and some furniture with minimal orange peel, but not the same glassy smoothness as an instrument’s factory finish.

[CharlieB]

Can a home lacquer job with a rattle can really be as good as a "pro" job? If so, this really does sound intriguing. I'd love to refinish a few horns.

It's not reasonable to expect a rattle can spray finish to be as good as one done by an experienced professional with expensive equipment under ideal conditions; but for a budget job where preventing tarnishing is more important than perfection, it can be economical solution.

[Thrawn22]

God don't do it!


But if you must, Elkhart era Conns use epoxy lacquer so using epoxy lacquer thinner will do the job. Getting the bell professionally relacquered after you scratch it up will end up thinning the bell .


Don't do it.

[BHolleyBrass]

Buffing *usually* removes more material than a brushed finish.

For the brushed finish, remove as little material as possible. The gray Scotch Brite pads work well (quickly and not too abrasive) for that if you don't want to use 00 steel wool. The white ones are good for an even finer finish.

Automotive wax would probably be a better, safer choice for keeping it looking nice and for ease of application. I would be concerned about unevenness and possible peeling from a spray can of lacquer; those are really only meant for play condition/touch up work, not large surface areas.

[Aftess]

Buffing *usually* removes more material than a brushed finish.

For the brushed finish, remove as little material as possible. The gray Scotch Brite pads work well (quickly and not too abrasive) for that if you don't want to use 00 steel wool. The white ones are good for an even finer finish. By the way it's better to buy quality goods, for example here https://sheetmaterialswholesale.co.uk/

Automotive wax would probably be a better, safer choice for keeping it looking nice and for ease of application. I would be concerned about unevenness and possible peeling from a spray can of lacquer; those are really only meant for play condition/touch up work, not large surface areas.

Are there any successful stories here on TubeNet and good DIY hints how to make a good looking brush finish with tools and stuff you can find

[Bonearzt]

Doing the satin or scratchrush finish removes VERY little material from the horn!
MUCH less than actual buffing!!!!

And using a rattle can lacquer can give a presentable finish if the surface is cleaned and degreased well.
But this probably won't be as durable as a lacquer shop job.
The spray can lacquers are usually thinned down quite a bit to allow them to spray evenly.